Man
and dog travel France on a Vespa
"For my part, I travel not to
go anywhere, but to go," wrote
Robert Louis Stevenson in Travels
with a Donkey. "I travel
for travel's sake. The great affair
is to move."
Many
of us often feel the same, but, of
course, we cannot always get up and
go simply because we want to. At the
moment, for example, I'm preoccupied
with several projects that need
constant and careful attention.
However, although I cannot now
absent myself physically, I may,
imaginatively, journey an hour or
two each day in the company of
celebrated explorers, scholars,
scientists and soldiers as well as
plain wayfarers.
Indeed the wayfarers—real
and imaginary—are
often more entertaining than the
determined seekers of far horizons.
For example, who could be a more
engaging, informative, as well as
hilarious guide to the Mississippi
River than Mark Twain? Surely, Jules
Verne's ever-resourceful Phileas
Fogg is a wonderful companion to tag
along with on his 80-day race around
the globe. And Stevenson's
do-or-die, ever-faithful donkey,
Modestine, has captured the hearts
of armchair travelers for more than
a century.
Stevenson's and Modestine's arduous
journey through the Cevennes region
of southern France in 1878 came to
mind this week as I read Gregory
Edmont's, Spotted in France,
a delightful account of a
contemporary jaunt from Paris to
Provence.
Edmont's four-footed companion was
not a long-suffering donkey, but a
wise and energetic Dalmatian named
JP. The initials are the
abbreviation for the pure-bred's
full name, Jarny-Princ du Bois-de-Tanagra. He is a descendant of a
noble line of his breed. However, he
retains the common touch. He loves
most people and is loved in return.
He displays innate manners and a
sense of the proprieties, as well as
a lively sense of fun.
Indeed, it is through JP that
American Edmont is able to blend
into the French culture. Edmont was
a somewhat lonely student at the
Sorbonne until he purchased JP from
Madame Clix, a well-known dog
breeder. Voila! As soon as Edmont
strolled out with JP on a leash,
strangers smiled at them. Previously
aloof neighbors said, "Bonjour!" One
friend assured Edmont that "Till
now, you have been merely a resident
of Paris. JP is your passport to
France." And so it was. The pair
were soon welcomed in restaurants,
where the proprietors always had
something delicious for JP.
Edmont bought a Vespa so that he
could travel about the country. JP
instantly took his place on the
scooter's footrest and went along
for the ride. Both master and dog
wore goggles and helmets. Motorists
honked and smiled. Parisian traffic
policemen waved them through crowded
intersections.
All
at once, Dalmatian and man are
called upon to aid the Madame Clix.
It is a literal mission of love.
Mating season approaches and because
of unforeseen events, the pure bred
JP must perform as stud. Edmont will
be rewarded with a substantial stud
fee. However, there is little time
to spare. The breeder lives more
than 500 miles south, near Grimaud.
With the aid of a travel guide,
Edmont maps out a route of rural
roads, safe for a slow-moving Vespa.
Soon,
he and JP are on the road to Grimaud
and adventure. Along the way, they
are accorded royal welcomes at
five-star restaurants (courtesy of
Madame Clix). They befriend an
ancient shepherd and his flock. They
are diverted from their trek for a
few hours in order to visit the
chateau once owned by the family of
Edmond Rostand, author of Cyrano
de Bergerac.
At a
rural checkpoint, they are pulled
aside by a stern policeman. He
insists on taking them to the local
station for questioning. Tiring of
rude treatment, they manage to
escape. That night they sleep in a
meadow and are awakened the
following morning by a coven of
witches, who practice white—not
black—magic.
They also repair autos and scooters.
Next
they pick up a Catholic priest,
whose car has broken down. And so it
goes, as they chug south to the
rescue of Madame Clix and JP's
season of love. But there are also
serious problems ahead.
Spotted in France is a
delightful, charming and
surprisingly poignant tale of dogs
and humans, good times and sorrows.
It's a worthwhile journey. And you
don't have to leave home to enjoy
it.
Charlie Langdon is the Herald's
senior critic.
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